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| The Bridge of the Americas |
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| The transit to canal |
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| Goodbye Atlantic, Hello Pacific! |
To view videos on Panama Canal Transit click the link or copy paste :
http://youtu.be/uFACq6PiKS0 (Goodbye Atlantic)
http://youtu.be/g1OQ5HA2oBs (Line Handlers)
http://youtu.be/rrL_wZyP6fM
Yesterday it was overcast, and rather cool for Panama. I had no problem walking all day, grocery shopping, and working on a ladder. Trying to repair what Mother Nature has damaged on the wind generator mount. She ate away 12 rivets that held 2 plated together. That held the mount in place. A couple of weeks ago It took several days to drill 6 holes on the work bench. Yesterday I drilled 3 holes 4 ft up a shaking ladder on top of the mast in about a half an hour. Another sign of my strength, and stamina returning.
Las Brisas de Amador - Causeway, Panama Anchorage
WORK ACCOMPLISHED
It is obvious my strength is returning almost daily. As well as my stamina too. A problem I started on when we first returned was the wind generator. It was blown off it’s mast, and the props sheered off. I first pulled it down with Mel’s help. Just disconnecting the wires, so we could drop the generator. Then actually getting the generator down, and on the deck just wiped me out. The next day I began to drill out the rotted, and broken rivets. I made one pass at 3 of 9 holes to be drilled. It wore me down. The next day I made another pass, and it wore me down. The drill bit also caught, and it twisted the plate of rivets, and hurt my wrist. Not to mention it broke the bit.
Several weeks passed, and we went into the yard. Then after getting out of the yard. We hunted down some new bits, and last week I started on the generator again. In one day I managed to completely drill out all 9 holes. With a total of 8 passes each. I ground down broken rivets, so the 2 of three plates will lay flush together. The third plate has a rubber gasket I fabricated to absorb vibrations.
Finding the proper size bolts, and fitting the pieces too several days looking all over town. It just so happened that a boat in the anchorage had the correct tap to thread the third plate for the new bolts. Once I had all the pieces I had to climb a broken ladder to high enough to look down on the mast. I tapped out the holes to fit the bolts. Spliced the wires that had worn through with months of the generator hanging from the mast. Ran the wires down the mast with Mel’s help. Then it was a matter of lifting the generator up to the top, and slipping it onto it’s rotating mount. I coiled up the remaining length of wire, and connected the wires to it’s terminal. Mel flipped on the switch, and we once again have free electricity when there’s wind.
The amount of electricity depends on the wind. Soince we are in a protected anchorage from wind. We basically get a trickle charge to heko maintain the batteries. At sea it will be able to run the navigation lights, auto pilot, and refrigerator through the night. With a good breeze, and the solar panels getting good sunlight. We won’t have to run the engines to top off the batteries for electrical power.
It took nearly a whole day to retrieve our little Honda gas generator. We have made a total of 3 trips for this generator. Once to deliver it, Once we went to pick it up, but there was miscommunication that it was ready. They were just confirming the price for repair, and once to actually bring it back to the boat. The repair for a bad valve, oil change, and air filter was $68.+, and the taxi rides were $70.00. The problem is our lack of speaking Spanish fluently. Some people are very gracious, and kind. While others get indignant that we don’t speak the language. In a country we meant to stay in for only 3-5 days!
While passing by Jamaica we ran into a 50 knot squall. While reefing the main I could see some of the reefing lines were slapping our antenna for our single side band radio. Yesterday I got back up on that shaking ladder to take a look, and rotate the wire to a better position. After peeling back the tape I could see one wire was actually pulled away from it’s mount. I am hoping this is the reason for our weather fax being so blurred as it was printed.
To view the video of the squall click the link or copy paste in your browser :
http://youtu.be/DjshrX9kx6E
Now the wire is attatched to one of our back stays. Back stays are large stainless steel wires that hold up the mast from the rear of the boat. The boat is moving around on small waves, and the wire is jiggling. All the time shaking an already shaking ladder. It took me nearly an hour to remove tape, loosen clamps, clean the broken wire, retighten clamps, and put on some more tape. Before I put on the tape I realized I could move the wire to a better position, so I had to loosen, and retighten all over again. It felt like I was doing A TIGHT ROPE WALK!
One of the problems with working on the boat is avoiding the heat of the day. The heat still wears me down. The morning, and evening are quite a bit cooler. Last night after getting off the ladder. I told Mel it was almost time for a shirt it was so cool. In all the years we have traveled in the tropics. Only a few nights have I wanted a/c. After the sun goes down, and there’s a wee bit of a breeze it is comfortable enough to sleep. By 3 am I am usually reaching for the sheet to cover up in, because I am cold.
Like anyplace there are many grocery stores here, and prices vary on the same product. We have spent 2 afternoon in 2 different stores provisioning the boat. We have a couple more days of this, and the pantry should be full. Then we need to focus on the freezer. I don’t eat as much meat as I use to eat. It is at times hard to swallow, or impossible. The meat has too be super tender, and be very wet with sauce, or gravy to get it to slip down. The radiation treatment has ruined my salivary glands. They seem to be improving, but still my throat is not the same. It seems to be very rough, and catch small pieces of food. It also seems to be much smaller too.
So here we are on the 26th of June, and getting very close to leaving for Hawaii. The things that have broken while we were gone. The tomorrow attitude of the Latin world, and the inability to get around easily has frustrated the hell out of me. We just keep pushing forward, and putting our shoulders to the wheel to make the cart move.
WAITING , PATIENCE & HOPE
I am being worn thin with waiting. & patience. I want to go, and go now, but I know it is not a good decision for now. To rely on my strength & stamina, so I wait, but impatiently so. Finding crew has proven to be my trial at patience, and I am failing.
Our first attempt at crew was halted through the red of immigration. The immigration of the USA. Ian was not given a visa due to the red tape of new immigration polices. I would thank to thank the dead bullet riddled body of Bin Laden for that. Our government lives in such fear that it is becoming ridiculous. They like to spread the fear to the people so we will willing huddle under their wings.
There was a delay in getting information to the US embassy from South Africa. Upon our arrival here we went to the US embassy to see if we could give any information, or find any information that could expediate the process. What we met instead of helpful was a downright power tripping asshole. I was hoping by showing my old passport, and them reviewing Ian’s in Trinidad. That they would see Ian had crewed for me before from the USA to the Bahamas, and back to the USA. Ian himself had entered, and left the USA on his own nearly ½ dozen times. By going in, and out of Cuba, or the Bahamas.
What we were told was it looks like you are window shopping for a visa. Going from embassy to embassy is obviously a no no. Even if it is to inquire how we could help the process to move along. He pointed his finger into his chest, and said you have to go through me. I make the decisions here. Protecting the USA’s safety is serious business, Really now it is 20-40 year old middle easterners that want to destroy us. Not 60+ year fellas from South Africa. If a one armed bandit robs the bank. Stop pulling over people with 2 arms. Let’s get the description correct. It was obvious by the pointing to his chest, and his tone it was a no go for Ian.
Then the man who is responsible for me being infected with sailing tried to come. He had recently retired. Moved from his lifetime home in Illinois to Florida. His retirement was early because of a health issue. Once he moved the company now wants him to reprove his health condition. This will take more visits to the doctor, and doctors are way too busy to see you now. It takes months to get a visit. People worry about Canada’s health care where they claim you will sit, and rot while waiting. I am sorry, but it happens right here, and it happened to me too. What should’ve taken 6 weeks took nearly 8 months, because they were too busy to see me, forgot me, or forgot to look at my paperwork, so put me off.
My next try was to turn to sailing forums seeking crew. I wrote I pay for everything on the boat including food. It is the crew’s responsibility to get to, and from the boat. I do not pay for liquor, and restaruants.
I have had a half dozen send me applications for a paying job. Do people not read what they are applying for? Apparently they don’t. I was polite to the first couple, but have ignored the rest. Although I want to write back smart ass remarks. If they can’t read a 3 sentence ad correctly. How will they manage to sail the boat?
We have had several possibilities that sounded good. Then communication stops from them. If you have doubts, or a question at least ask, and do be polite enough to write back, and say I am no longer interested.
We sent out some canvas to be reworked, and a couple of rain catching cloths. Promised to be delivered in 2 days. It’s nearly a week now. Promises of I am on my way, tomorrow, give me an hour. In the mean time we are sitting waiting on the boat for a no show. When things could be getting accomplished instead. It’s frustrating as hell.
Poor St. Melanie took the brunt of my frustrations twice this week. I can only be thankful she is a forgiving, and understanding woman. Then again that is how she got the name St. Melanie. I am not a hard man to live with. I don’t tolerate B.S. very well, and speak my mind. Some find me difficult, but they need to remember where my attitude started. It starts with their B.S.!
The other day we sent out the laundry to be done. We asked 4-5 times how much? Well, it won’t be much, don’t worry about it. They had advertised a price of $5-6, but we wanted to hear it in person. When it was delivered is was $9, and I was floored. It was 2 loads, and it cost us nearly $4 a load to do. While waiting in a mosquito infested area, or leaving your clothes behind unattended.
I told the person it was wrong to do our laundry for a different price. The excuse was well, our normal people were busy so we took it someplace else. This was after she showed up the day before without our laundry.
The good news is another cruiser showed up later that evening at the boat. He had a refund of $6, and an apology from the laundry people. It restored a tiny bit of faith in humans again.
Once in awhile it it’s really hot we will take a taxi. I can’t take the heat. it just wears me down these days. The bus will get us there for $1, and the taxi is $3. Although when they are empty they will honk, flash their lights, and hold up a finger for $1 per person. Of course at this rate they pile in other customers.
This taxi flashes, honks, and holds up his finger. The man standing just ahead of us gets in. We go to get in, and he raises the fare. I was beat from the heat, so we took the ride. He starts explaining to us that we are tourist. We charge tourist more money. Just another frustration, and another asshole that is wearing my patience thin.
I am not labeling Panamanians as bad people. We have also met the sweetest, and most helpful people too. These people refresh my faith in humankind, and let me start fresh again. It’s me, and I am tired of the hot days that beat me down. I am tired of not have good enough language skills to communicate 100% here. I am tired of people trying to squeeze extra money out of me, because they think I am a rich yachtie who happens to be American.
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| PT is the one who worked on our boat and wouldn't accept any tip after all his hard work One of the great local people we met here in Panama |
Then this morning I was given hope. A friend of a friend of mine asked if a couple of date would work for his arrival? I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. It’s only the size of a pinhead, but it’s something, and I can see it. I know it’s going to be hot, slow, sometimes rough, an d the motor running to get out of Panama. When we hit the trade winds all of that will change. There will be a fresh breeze running over the boat. It will keep us cool, and there will be rain to refresh our supplies. There will be 200 mile days with barely touching the sails. That is when my dream will come true.
We have had nearly 300 mile days, but it was storming, and a freezing cold. These large mile days have not been constant either. They are there for a day, and gone. We have had numerous 200 mile days, but once again they were not constant. I am looking forward to day after day of making X‘s on a chart with at least 200 miles between them to mark our progress. The knot meter reading a constant 8- 10 knots over the ground. Big puffy clouds slowly moving ahead of us, and almost the same course. The stars down to the horizon, and no land in sight for weeks. Then on que ahead of us a mountain appears, and it’s the island we seek, Hawaii! I know it’s going to happen. I have dreamt it too many times for it not to.
So here I sit on a cool, and rainy day. Hope has been restored. Imagine keels have been rebuilt. There is a pretty new blue bottom paint on her. Her bottom is faired, and she will slip through the water easier. Her engines are no longer spitting out oil. The wind generator has been mounted, and putting out free electricity. The electrical problems with the alternators are resolved. On a sunny day we can’t use all the electricity the solar panels put out. II have polished stainless tubing that holds the bimini cover. I will continue to polish stainless steel, and then start sanding teak rub, & hand rails. Then applications of varnish. As much cosmetic work as I can get done in the next 10 days. Mechanically she’s ready, and now it’s a wee bit of touch up to get her ready. She deserves it, because she sat here, and waited. She & Melanie both show patience that I struggle with at times. St. Melanie, St. Imagine, and a grumpy old fart named John.
( June 2011-Vacamonte Shipyard)
The second thing is my throat. It bother me in a couple of ways. When I wake up in the morning I have a lot of flem, and this causes me to cough. Until I drink something warm it drives me nuts. It also causes me a great amount of grief. I am an eater, and enjoy eating a lot. I am sure that is why my body was a wee bit round! Now pieces of small meat, skins of vegetables, and beans get caught in my throat quite often. Rice, and lentils seem to be the worst. The other night the skin of a lintel caught in my throat. Trying to get it out actually forced my dinner up, and into the sink.
This frustrates the hell out of me. I was so frustrated I gave up eating. Went to lay down, and continue to read Tristan Jones. The same book for maybe 4-5 times already, but he always makes me smile. A STAR TO STEER BY is the title, and it’s about trying to prove that multi hulls can sail to weather, are safe, and fast. He sails from San Diego to England via Panama in nearly 15,000 miles. He also proves with the boat Outward leg that a multi is very capable, and this is right after having a leg amputated.
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| John confine in the hospital after last two days of radiation session |
My Dad’s request was to be placed in the Pacific Ocean only. Last year we arrived on Father’s Day. It was very appropriate to only lay some of his ashes to the sea while the sun was setting. We also put some out at the islands of Isla Perlas a short time later. Tomorrow is Father’s Day once again. Maybe we will for a sweet day sail, and place a little more of him to sea. Along with my good buddy John Eilermann. I am sure they have been talking to each other this past year. About how negligent I have been to them. Conspiring down in the cubby hole where their remains are kept.
In this past year. I have gone from a strong man who looked 10-15 years younger than my age. To a man that looks his age, and struggles with what was once easy. Then again 6 months ago I was fighting to stay alive, and with a loss of nearly 60 lbs. I am still here, and the encouragement I get makes me walk taller, and quickens my pace even on a hot day.
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| John on 07/2010 at Pearl Island - Panama before cancer diagnosis |
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John cooking meals but cannot eat solid food @Feb.2011     With Vikki Marver on early May 2011 at Hayward, California  End of May 2011-Republic of Panama with Mel |
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